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No worries about chips or broken corners because they're so well packed it would take a lot to damage/scratch them.įor my house I got Kraftmaid, which isn't a budget cabinet but more of a mid-line. No worries about un-square casing because you're asssembling them. Yes the drawers were cheap on both budget sets and I could tell they would be what breaks soonest but for $700-$900 it was an absolute dream. Of the five kitchens I was the most impressed with these. The RTA Chindia cabinets were real laquered wood., blum hinges, not bad for cheap. The Mill's pride were the white laminate that was quite sturdy, and very very easy to clean/assemble. For the budgets I used HD Mill's Pride, then some RTA cut-throat Chindia cabinets. I've done 3 budget kitchens and a mid-line. I like the slow close drawers, and the undermounts give you a lot more space, but those weren't available in the cheaper cabinet lines when I was looking. Put in shelf liners and use the handles you should be fine. The drawers are what breaks first, then doors, then the finish. If the shelves are particle board you want 3/4" in a cabinet over 24" so they don't sag, but if you design doesn't have long cabinets don't worry about it. Particle board makes an awesome cabinet, nice and flat and with the proper fasteners will make a strong enough joint to handle granite countertops. But I have had very good luck and it looks nice!ĭon't worry about the cases, other than the ends you won't see them. Now, the cabinets are particle board, the fronts are real wood. They also offer a lot of assistance with that if needed. Oh and they have a 3d kitchen designer program that you need to use to design the kitchen, it might sound daunting but my wife did that too (hey, its her room). IKEA offers a surprisingly good selection of neat gizmos, their drawers and doors all have dampers, and they have some neat types of sliding cabinets.
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#Instock cabinets lowes install
2) I could install it myself 3) a lot of people have found that granite countertops actually emit enough radon that they are required to put in a radon pump when they sell their houses. The reason for the butcher block was 1) it was dirt cheap (seriously, I was amazed, I forget about $150). insuring they are all level.įor a countertop we used ikea's butcher block, its oak and looks great, about twice a year I put some of the ikea oil on it (forget the type, its in my basement). The sustem they use to install the upper cabinets is genius, you bolt a metal rail to the wall and the cabinets just clamp on. Cabinets were assembled by my wife (when i was out of town for work). Replaced all cabinets and countertops.Ībsolutely no problems, it still works as well as the day it was put in (by me). Seriously, 4 years ago I replaced my kitchen, ripped it down to the drywall. Old kitchen cabinets make great work bench/storage, I made a new work bench out of the best two steel cabinets and one of the old counter tops. Since the upper steel cabinets were still in great shape, I covered the icky yellow doors with stick on shelf paper that had a wood grain, it has fooled more than one person. If you go the cheap route, don't buy your counter tops from lowes, they will work ok, but the lower front edge laminate ends at the lower edge, anywhere near your sink water will run down to the lower edge and wick back into the counter top and cause it to swell, the counter tops at HD continue the laminate back underneath the bottom edge an inch or so to stop this from happening. I did have to make my own shelves inside the cabinets, but just reused the wire shelves from the old steel cabinets. I replaced some rusted steel kitchen cabinets from the 50's with the red oak front unfinished cabinets from Lowes, I found the cabinets from HD are all junk and would never buy them, so far we have had the cabinets for 5 years and don't have any issues with them.